Exactly a decade ago Consuelo Castiglioni stepped away from her brand Marni and Renzo Rosso handed the reins to Francesco Risso, who had a wildly creative tenure with little commercial impact. While there was a clearly defined Marni woman before, she had disappeared. Meryll Rogge with her debut collection brought her back and if it was only for the proper above the knee length skirt which defined the silhouette of the female era led Marni. Plus of course many oversized sequin disks as adornment.

Not everything worked like the underlying western theme and there was a too strong whiff of a certain directional house who shows in Milan and ends the season in Paris but overall, the fresh attitude and introduction of sportswear elements as in zippered nylon dresses, track suit closures and pockets made this a success. Rogge has a focus on the waist where most dresses and pants sit snugly and are often accentuated with belts. The best looks came when she applied a maxi belt with two big buttons around the bust and waist in khaki and a grey and black combo bringing back that Marni woman.