Pharrell Williams is starting to build a legacy at Louis Vuitton as their men’s creative director already showing his sixth collection for the house. But as he is a musician and entertainer it becomes more and more clear that his shows seem to be concerts with clothes and not the usual fashion statement supported by music. Let’s say this, he is brilliant at the music and the live orchestra and choir he installed at opposite ends of the room in his custom-built tent next to the Fondation Louis Vuitton where the current Gerhard Richter show dazzles audiences, delivered soulful renditions of great tracks which Pharrell came up with for the show, presumably an original score. At least all songs were un-Shazam-able.
Louis Vuitton Men’s F/W 2026 set
But what about the rest?
The clothes were good, high luxe tailoring and sportswear, classic renditions of wardrobe staples like bombers and parkas but with little soul. Pharrell and his studio put a focus on extremely technical fabrics like grey wool suits that turn reflective when light hits them like in late night traffic. In a season of classic tailoring everywhere this seems like an interesting angle worth exploring which was not exploited by the concert meets architecture biennale format. Why there was a giant Philip Johnson style glass house in the middle of the set with full-fledged modern interiors was a big question after the show as there were no architectural references in silhouette or construction in the very commercial offers.
Louis Vuitton Men’s F/W 2026
Elevated bomber jacket styles
Classic renditions of parkas
Reflective suiting
Classic formal wear
Technical fabrics
Pharrell called this the Drophaus. The models walked awkwardly in and out of the house at the beginning and end of the show and while one was expecting a surprise to come from the bungalow as it took such a predominant position. We are not sure if this experiment of a pop star as designer for a fashion house is the best of ideas as the point of highlighting clothes when thinking of staging and lighting and music seems to not to be Pharrell’s instinct. He is a showman. But is the move copied? Of course, the entertainer as designer has been tried by a few houses now including Lanvin, Louboutin or Jimmy Choo. Sending out his collection with his fantastic cast – always a high point here – in a season of very “white” castings, gives major points to the global house as ACHTUNG sat next to a rapper from Singapore who only came in for the show and declared himself a fan and customer or VIC.
Pharrell’s Drophaus
