The set of Burberry

London Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2020 Highlight: Burberry

With Victoria Beckham’s return from New York and Burberry’s commitment to show in London, the fashion week here was a must. And Riccardo Tisci stepped on the gas in his remaking of the British trench coat maker into an international luxury brand.

Where is the Burberry express?

The train has left the station now and with Tisci products gracing his redesigned shelves all over the world – he even redid the company showrooms – it’s no secret that his Thomas Burberry logo T-shirts are flying out of the stores. Same for all other logo related pieces, which are the backbone of his makeover as the cash register needs to ring. Tisci himself wears the black TB logo T-shirt as personal uniform and when taking his bow.

Riccardo Tisci at the Burberry Spring/Summer 2020 show.

How Burberry is Tisci and vice versa?

From his very first show in Milan, Tisci has displayed an obsession with the Victorian period so it came as no surprise that he mined the house archives for that era in his ruffled dresses, lace decor and cinched waists. Also, it’s a well-known fact that Tisci is a hardcore nightclub fan so his set featured a futuristic sound system installation with rust floor and ceiling worthy of Twilo or Ministry of Sound. “This is the future” whispered Tisci backstage.

Inspired by the Victorian period the collection showed ruffled dresses and cinched waists.

How does Tisci handle the trench coat?

The good news is that this new Burberry goes very light on the use of the brand’s iconic check pattern. But Tisci’s reconstructed versions with silk panels already look like new classics. Just don’t bring them to the dry cleaner. The classy silk foulard given to every guest instantly added a new luxury category to the house.

Tisci’s new take on the house’s classic trench coat included some silk panels.