London Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2019 Part 2
Achtung's seasonal review on London's greatest fashion moments: Burberry
Burberry S/S 2019
An Italian redesigning England’s most iconic brand? We admit, it sounds odd and it’s not only one Italian but two. Burberry’s new designer Riccardo Tisci was hired by CEO Marco Gobbetti, another ragazzo; so the ultimate Made in England brand reinvented by two icons of Bella Fashion Italia made for an interesting debut. For his first show, Tisci delivered a strong, detail-packed and exciting collection which anchored the women’s section in Grace Kelly land with lots of silk scarves and the men’s on Savile Row with a good portion of Tisci trademark club wear. It was a bit too long with all of its 134 looks and we hope that Tisci’s top designer colleagues will not see themselves inspired by him but the new luxury layer to Burberry felt fresh.
What was best?
The logo. Seriously, what a brilliant first step by Tisci to co-design the logo with Peter Saville who has done the same for Calvin Klein lately. Out the horse and knight replaced by a TB (Thomas Burberry not Tory Burch) intertwined with a rescaled version of the Burberry check. And of course look number two on our current cover gal Cosima Fritz featured this new logo used in a silk blouse and in many more of the 134 looks. In fact, it was the foundation of the collection with of course the trenchcoat.
Nobody can make shiny surfaces look more classy than Tisci. His silk scarves and blouses for the daywear and trench coat section with foulards coming out of jackets and at the hem of coats looked fresh and exciting.
The Regent Street store?
Of course, the new logo was on billboards all over London and at the airport and plastered in every magazine of note since Burberry is a two billion dollar plus turnover giant and can afford a media push. But Tisci didn’t leave it at that and also reimagined the iconic Regent Street store putting in Matthew Barney art installation type giant curtains and scaffold sculpture commissioned by British artist Graham Hudson called Sisyphus Reclined. In fact a giant three floor construction that stays as work in progress. Noteworthy also the 19 different shades of Burberry trench beige that Tisci concocted for the store environment. There was not much in the store but a few pieces Tisci deemed worthy like car coats, trenches and two toned chained tassle loafers.
No celebrities, a big surpriseand win for Tisci. Only friends and family and industry. First a typical Tisci nightclub atmosphere with dark techno beats and people tripping to find their seats and then the roof opened up to London’s sunny sky for the show proving Tisci’s current relaxed state of mind and his playing with the audience expectations. And who else can stick in Kendall Jenner and Natalia Vodianova somewhere in the middle of the show and nowhere near opening or closing. Every editor was there, of course his entire family and beloved mamma and the collection called Kingdom was the talk of the town afterwards. Just the way Riccardo likes it.