JW Anderson S/S 2019
After coming to London Fashion Week for more than a decade, one thing can be said for sure from Achtung Mode’s point of view: London is a talent cradle. The best fashion schools are here, the ethnic diversity is always inspirational and the strong club and nightlife culture allows for many experiences outside the normal. This is the place where talents are born and we must admit: We are jealous that in our hometown of Berlin the same seems not possible. Ethnic diversity, strong art scene, best clubs in the world and a heavy focus and support from the German media aside, Berlin can not find its JW, Christopher, Craig or Phoebe.
With his latest show, JW Anderson has arrived in a new comfort zone or simply taken his brand onto the next level. He masters daring shapes, commands inventive fabric mixes, accessorizes wildly and still manages to anchor the collection based on the image of a real woman, most of them sitting in his bleachers, who wants something special without looking like a victim. His clothes are right there. Few designers manage that, it’s clear and Helmut and Phoebe two masters at the skill, are out of fashion. So welcome new status quo definer Anderson.
“I love to use scarves as structure because I like the way a woman’s leg looks wearing it,” explained a tanned and relaxed Anderson post-show. “On top, I love Ibiza and the Balearic vibe and felt like heavily infusing this collection with it.” It was exactly that. A light-handed approach on intricate pieces where dresses with strong shoulders anchored the silhouette.
Never has Anderson’s approach to Loewe and his own brand felt so close. Let’s face it, no designer pulling double duty could avoid that but here the Irish Londoner used his Spanish main job experiences to bring a new Mediterranean ease to his conceptual and brainy London clothes.