Bradford-born Daniel Lee is making Burberry more British than ever and embraces the rain-soaked identity of England as a foundation. His hometown is only a few miles away from the factories where beige gabardine is turned into the trench coat and by carefully revisiting the archive at the beginning of his tenure, he found all the branding gold that is making the fashion world heads turn already. He found the knight logo there and the shade of blue which he uses everywhere and calls Knight blue as the Prorsum tag which stands for forward. And ultimately that is his mission to move the codes of the brand which involve Britishness as in ceremonial dress (i.e.,King Charles’ coronation recently) or football and rugby ground gear, the outdoors as in hunting and fishing or subcultures as punk, rave or skinheads and make them part of a bigger conversation: culture. That’s Irish-man Jonathan Anderson’s playbook at Loewe where he speaks about a culture brand and not a fashion house. For this season Lee created an association with Norman’s café which serves hearty British food like minced pies or eggs and chips, or he took over the entrance of the Bond Street tube station transforming it into Burberry Street during LFW. The campaigns he realizes with photographer Tyrone Lebon are strong, embrace classic products and already stand out in the sea of same-same fashion advertising. His second show was not a fashion moment just yet but a sober exercise in elevating the brand into the luxury realm with heavy use of silk scarves, silver and gold accessories and tailoring.