From the moment he came on the scene, the Irish designer Jonathan Anderson was one of fashion’s biggest promises. Since the pandemic he is in the top three of fashion’s unofficial ranking along with Miuccia Prada and Rick Owens in ACHTUNG’s humble opinion. With his recent work at Loewe which he steered into a one billion Euro brand and a must see during the Paris shows and his namesake brand, he has rightfully gained the title as the industry’s most important thought provoker and disruptor. How refreshing to know that a properly trained fashion designer can have such an impact in an age of celebrity and influencer driven clothes. The latest appointment of Pharrel Williams at Louis Vuitton is an unnerving confirmation of this boring trend. At Loewe he created a hit bag with the Puzzle and his directional shows and campaigns have made the Spanish leather goods house a hot commodity. So much even that people whispered he could be next at Louis Vuitton. And now this show here in London. Anderson looked back at his own archives where he finds 15 years of edgy collections and ideas like flying saucer collars, square shaped zipper details and maxi collars on tops in the back and front to revisit. To give the outing a fresh spin, the dance and music fanatic Anderson teamed up with Scottish choreographer and dancer Michael Clark.

What we loved?

The opening section felt like streetwear with its usage of logos on tank tops and T-shirts from Michael Clark’s archives of posters and graphics but was elevated to runway fashion by pairing the tops with sleek knit bell bottom pants often in plasticized bright colors like lime green and orange and applying a heavy dose of rhinestones on the motives like two Victory sign fingers with silver varnish. Juxtaposed with his archival window scarf dresses the show had a vibrant fashion message.

The patriot?

Anderson was adamant post-show that Clark’s work speaks for the unifying power of British culture at large in divisive times.

The fashion trend?

Dresses constructed nearly like his puzzle hit bag at Loewe came in beige baby corduroy, a fabric which is shown on many directional catwalks.