The Italian fashion brand Dondup has always been known for its high-quality denim since it was founded in 1999. Recently, the company has undergone some big changes with CEO Matteo Anchisi at the helm leading Dondup to quick growth and global expansion. Dondup has just opened its first German flagship store in Munich, located on renowned Residenzstraße. This move marks the next step in Anchisi’s strategy to grow Dondup’s international presence, all while maintaining the brand’s commitment to Italian craftsmanship.
We sent photographer Claudia Grassl, Munich-based editor Mirjana Hecht and some models over to Residenzstrasse to take a look – at the shop and its furnishings and what’s on the hangars. We also had the chance to talk to Matteo about the roots and expansion of the brand and what the label “100% Made in Italy” really means in 2024.
ACHTUNG: Dondup was named after the Tibetan Lama Mingyar Dondup. How much of his credo is still part of Dondup today?
Matteo Anchisi: Promoting a message of equality, peace, and freedom is more crucial than ever. For us, it’s more than just a slogan; it permeates our entire company culture. I’m proud to lead a diverse and inclusive workplace that actively supports these values through both our actions and our products.
A: What makes its place of origin so important for Dondup’s philosophy?
M.A.: The Marche region, also known as “Denim Valley,” was once the epicenter of Italian craftsmanship in high-end denim, employing over 12,000 people. Today, that number has drastically reduced to less than 3,000, but I’m proud that a significant portion of them are involved in Dondup’s production, with 43% based in Marche. This region uniquely blends heritage and innovation, making it globally recognized and integral to our philosophy.
A: What does the “100% Made in Italy” label mean for Dondup, and what does it not mean?
M.A.: “Made in Italy” is the strongest trademark in the fashion industry, though it has been misused at times. My mission was to ensure that our products are genuinely 100% made in Italy. This commitment is our unique selling proposition and a way to honor our heritage. Since adopting this standard in 2020, we’ve dedicated ourselves to maintaining the integrity and authenticity of our products.
A: Dondup has been part of the “Made in Italy Fund” private equity fund since 2021, and you, Matteo, are a shareholder in the fund. What motivated you to do this and how does this help you in managing the company?
M.A.: Dondup is a gem in the Italian fashion industry with strong numbers, a consistent strategy, high margins, and a rooted digital and ESG culture. The “Made in Italy Fund” focuses on identifying and nurturing such companies to reach their global potential. By investing and participating in this process, we’ve achieved our best financial results in revenue, EBITDA, and international presence. I believe this partnership was the right move for us.
A: Dondup is known worldwide for its denim products. What makes Dondup jeans so special and distinctive?
M.A.: Without sounding boastful, I can confidently say that Dondup offers the best fit in the world. We are constantly researching and improving our fits to ensure we provide the highest quality.
A: In 2019, Dondup launched D/Zero collections, where jeans are treated with certified and traceable washes and finishes and made entirely in Italy. What was the inspiration behind it?
M.A.: Dondup has a history of pioneering sustainability, always seeking natural dyes, organic materials, and innovative Research & Development. The D/Zero collection is one of many projects where we strive to industrialize and enhance sustainability in our products. For example, we are about to launch garments made with a proprietary blue derived from the guado plant, historically used for blue dye before indigo. Our goal is to make a significant impact through large-scale sustainable practices rather than just marketing.
A: Dondup is a pioneer in Italian denim culture. What does Italian denim culture stand for in particular?
M.A.: Italian denim culture is defined by its perfect imperfection, unique wash depths, and artisanal, tailor-made uniqueness in every garment. This sets Italian denim apart from the rest of the world.
Clothes and accessories DONDUP
