Good, better, best

Brioni is in a class of its own

January 16, 2022

This truism currently also applies to fashion. However, this has nothing to do with inexpensive fashion jewelry that shimmers like the expensive original. What is meant is the rediscovery of the bourgeoisie. Not of the bourgeoisie as the “ruling class”, however, but the revitalization of their wardrobe. Looking bourgeois is now very popular again, it doesn’t have to have anything to do with bourgeois ideals – it’s about the quality, the workmanship not the shine. Men’s wear sees its biggest growth at the moment with labels like Brunello Cucinelli or Loro Piana. Not cutting edge names but purveyors of the best materials in easy shapes. Brioni has been missing on this beat but under the stewardship of CEO Mehdi Benabadji and designer Norbert Stumpfl the house is rediscovering its ultra luxe roots of making the best men’s wear in the best possible fabrics. Forgotten are the days when an ex-buyer was installed as head designer of the Roman house and literally installed a coffin in the windows of the rue St.Honoré boutique accompanied by a Metallica ad campaign. Now Brad Pitt graces the elegant ads in custom made clothes by Stumpfl. Stumpfl excels at bringing the best out of the tailor workshops and factories, which belong to the Kering owned brand. He understands the new ease and fluidity governing the industry. Highlights included.

Brioni F/W 2022 presentation

The secret of ultra light?

One of Brioni’s key assets is the feather light tailoring. But to create substance in the absence of weight, Stumpfl goes to great lengths to give texture to his garments. So he uses a thistle rose to brush fabric like cashmere to lend the fabric a tactile touch. The rose needs to be exchanged every hour in the process. Berliner Luca Gajdus features prominently in the lookbook wearing these pieces.