Jonathan Anderson is a 360-degree creative who leaves nothing untouched when it comes to his Dior rebuild. Yeah, yeah, new celebs (yesterday Mick Jagger next to Little Simz) in ”New Looks“, new campaigns, but first and foremost completely new collections. He has clearly understood that the clothes and accessories need to be very new for every show he does and so far, he shows no slowing down. Back from Los Angeles he and his men’s studio put in a few weeks and nights of heavy design work to come up with a collection full of ideas. How about a double-breasted officer coat – becoming a signature – in pajama fabric? Or his opening looks of see through silk double-breasted suits (he let the studio simply take out the lining) which got everything off to a great start in a beautiful small museum garden in the Eighth arrondisement. Even the different show locations signify his level of diligence. It’s safe to say that in only one year he has changed the house more than any other of the debut designers he started with. It’s an irreverent and design driven Dior now which celebrates the codes – of course lots of frayed out bar jackets – and youth culture (ravers can shop now) and not a commercially driven one.

The best idea?

Anderson is making Dior about denim. But when the house was once famous for the skinny jeans with the back pocket detail, his ideas are much more maximalist. The show features several frayed tuxedo jackets with shawl collar that were worn over beautifully embroidered dress shirts – a recent red-carpet trend – and simple black pants. Let’s add the disco ball boots. Also, staying away from a too heavy fashion historical theme like Paul Poiret the season before.

Our favorite looks?

The long skinny double-breasted officer coat has become a signature by now. Yesterday there was a fine suede one worn with torn jeans. Of course, the holes in those jeans are covered with tiny sequined threads. Also, the combination of electric color leather shorts and pants with formal upper halves created the right tension.