Make no mistake, but Jonathan Anderson is currently in such a zone that he simply makes no mistakes. His fourth collection for the house of Dior – his first Haute Couture show in his designer life – added another groundbreaking layer to his fresh oeuvre at Dior which is very much representing his age, hence his proximity to youth culture (see all his newly signed celebs like Josh O’Connor) and above all his penchant for shape shifting clothes which made for a marvelous Haute Couture show full of invention and will probably help to propel the genre forward as this was all about a laboratory of ideas. How about including one of his personal favorites and an anchor of his namesake brand like knitwear which is all about skilled hands? Well, there was a gigantic shawl collar and V-neck sweater hybrid in white wool with a slit skirt exposing the leg and making the look very attractive. His big idea was his silhouette which was first introduced at his first ready-to-wear, a giant upside-down lamp shade dress he opened with in black and white made from silk georgette and hand pleated by the ateliers. This shape also showed up in beautiful black coats. Just like in the men’s shows, the color combinations of green and orange with black were breathtaking. Aptly titled Wunderkammer, the ideas just kept coming from his collector playbook: real flowers cut from silk, introduction of bags covered in real fabric from the period of Queen Marie Antoinette to heighten uniqueness, incorporation of nature in sea shell tops and a display of the collection to the public in the Dior Museum after the show and not just for clients.

Fun floral fact?

John Galliano sent JW flowers – a bouquet of cyclamen – when he took over at Dior last year and ever the clever fashion insider, Anderson decided to give the flowers that Galliano gave him to all his guests with the invite as well as use them as his show decor on the ceiling and ask milliner Stephen Jones to concoct hats out of them. Galliano was a guest of honor at the show.

Maybe?

There was one mistake: holding the show for 50 minutes to wait for Rihanna’s arrival; the superstar who is never on time.