Nearly 50 years old, the Renzo Rosso empire (OTB for Only the Brave) building block denim line Diesel has found traction again under the stewardship of Glenn Martens and recent reports indicate that the sales numbers are getting better and better. To experiment with construction is the ethos of Glenn Martens and makes him the perfect match at a lifestyle denim brand as his work has always been at the forefront of establishing a whole new look with jeans. His recipe is to add immense craftsmanship into his denim covering it with resin to add his signature creases and fabric folds. Rosso has employed him also at Margiela where he brings his much-needed Belgian sensibility to the Maison. While Y/Project is no longer on the schedule, Diesel affords him to bring that off-beat energy into perfectly commercial outfits uniting all known youth culture archetypes with a serious design twist. Martens has the help of stylist Ursina Gysi, who adds a subversive sexy vibe with her taste for lots of skin in hot pants often wrapping a twisted lumberjack shirt around the waist. At a rave, clothing is never just about what you wear — it’s about who you are. This is what Martens has internalized here and judging from his new Diesel offers they resemble walk-of-shame-gear looking as if the pieces had been worn day and night, disheveled, put together while storming out of a room. Setting a stage with thousands of brought together Diesel paraphernalia like invites, lighters, underwear or pizza boxes the models looked like they were stepping into a massive music festival or an underground club, the outfits representing identity and empowerment.