This NYC-rooted label was the most welcome change of pace in next year’s Parisian Spring/Summer outlooks after Courrèges in the morning. Finally, some energy. Partly thanks to the evergreen Michel Gaubert soundtrack, which both designers Taubensee and DiCaprio eventually joined with a live performance (yes, the mic was on), but also thanks to Vaquera’s by-now almost house-coded mixture of old French glamour with the raunchiness only a label hailing from New York — or maybe our stomping grounds Berlin — can bring to the table.

The duo keeps adding to its mix-and-match canon of what’s happening in the big houses here, filtered through their very welcome, adolescent naivety and rebellion. Just have a look for yourself: Look 33. A little persiflage of current Chanel, anyone? Look 34 followed and went full Ratatouille, with a chef’s hat and ruffled jumpsuit. We could keep going dissecting each look, but what fun is that if we spell it out even more?

With Dover Street Market’s Adrian Joffe continuing to back the label, and major collaborations with merch-first companies like Crocs and Berliners Mykita in the pipeline all one needs to know is that Vaquera is the real deal.