One thing has to be said about the Phoebe Philo school. All the alumni from her “design academy” make clothes that are instantly desirable and ready to walk off the runway onto the streets. Yesterday’s debut of Drew Henry at Courrèges further cemented the case. There was a line-up of simple shapes with lots of cigarette pants and simple T-shirts in approachable fabrics like double face cotton. Plus, strong colors like orange and select archival pieces like an original sculptural hat to punch up the looks to make for a wardrobe that would be perfectly at home in the galleries of the Palais de Tokyo and its visitors where the show was held. Henry said backstage: “I had so much fun going into these archives and design this show. I love fashion and the pieces are not too serious while I take my work extremly seriously,” hence men in A-line dresses and open in the back tops, which all perfectly worked without ever veering into the gimmicky. 

Back to the logo?

The previous Courrèges was much more about bold construction and less branding. Henry clearly understands what a great logo he can play with at Courrèges and used it from the first look on both breast pockets and kept returning to it with logo stamped collars. 

Courrèges logo

Best looks?

Henry has a way with injecting fashion in wardrobe staples like a denim jacket. It’s slightly shrunken here, pockets placed higher than usual and paired with a belted slouchy pant with a slit open hem or a simple white top with orange pants in the same fit. 

Flashes of color?

Neon orange and green, bright red and yellow pastels juxtaposed with lots of signature black and white made this morning show very alive. 

Honorable mention?

The men’s wear was sensational. Whether the female A-shapes in dresses or pants with tunics or the multi-striped pants, the zipped-up tops with logo closures, it all felt new.