The Japanese team is wowing at the World Cup with a tactically disciplined eleven which scores its goals via meticulously set up drills. Next is Brazil in the knockout phase and Japan stands a good chance of advancing. Then we all have heard the talk that the best pizza is not found in Napoli but in Tokyo because the Japanese Pizzaiolos have – again meticulously – dissected what goes into a dough and makes it stand out. And now here comes Soshiotsuki, who has left an impression at the LVMH prize as shortlisted in 2016 and winner in 2025 and was one of the main shows of Pitti Uomo 109 in Florence last year and takes the wildly popular women’s concept of resort wear and executes it perfectly for men. Yesterday’s Paris show revealed a master tailor of a boxy silhouette of mostly two-button, double-breasted jackets that were often worn with cool Asics sneakers and full pants to distill the look of the moment. 

Even without touching the fabrics on the models who marched down an elegant courtyard in the fifth arrondissement of Paris, one could discern the weight and excellence of the fabrics, all of them made in Japan and either yarn or garment dyed. Otsuki imagined a father on a few days off going to a resort and dressing for the occasion. To balance his perfect elegance, he threw in a few sartorial disruptions not as styling, but as part of the garments like a belt which sat on the pants unclosed like a snake lifting its head or collars molded into curves. The fact that they spell out the letter S for the brand is even more charming. Here is a designer who meticulously takes the classic art of tailoring to a whole new level by rebuilding a classic Italian full canvas construction and adding his Japanese pattern cutting chops for a different take on fluidity and softness. Italian houses in need of a new template should have this man on their radar.