Pronounce
Pronounce celebrated their 10th anniversary with a show held yet again at Fondazione Sozzani with a banger collection and a soft, summery tailoring study presented by Chinese creative duo Jun Zhou & Yushan Li. This collection felt so easy and feather light, we started imagining actually wearing a suit to the beach. Pants were generously cut almost resembling beach towels wrapped around the waist or in contrast, some jackets were paired with super short shorts and beat up sneakers, adding to the effortlessness of this whole collection. A wide array of fabrics like cottons, nylon, leather and even organza were mixed throughout the show in a brand typical muted but pronounced color palette. Shirts and vests were doubled and layered playing heavily into the styling zeitgeist with sleeves bundled up haphazardly around elbows.
Pronounce Men’s S/S 2027
Pants like wrapped around beach towels
Heavily layered looks
Dolce & Gabbana
Continuing with the short shorts competition, Dolce & Gabbana probably already won this season. Any shorter would be considered a brief. The brand brought the heat, in more than one sense of the word. There were super sexy looks, the Italians do best when it comes to men’s but also a plethora of very cool roomy linen and cotton suits to combat the scorching Italian heat. Some meticulously bedazzled, others kept in fully monochrome black or white. There’s not a lot to say here other than this collection was as Dolce & Gabbana as it gets, even with some recent company re-structuring. White wifebeaters paired with bedazzled jeans, an obvious oceanic influence in the embroideries, Italian postcard and Sicilian lemon tree prints on silky shirts and a dramatic, but optimistic show closing in all white.
Dolce & Gabbana Men’s S/S 2027
Heavy on the Sicilian
Super sexy short shorts
Setchu
Carrying on with the oceanic feeling, Satoshi Kuwata opened his Setchu S/S 2027 show with a model trapped in a fishing net. The collection tapped into all sorts of inspirations a designer could get when thinking of the open sea. Sometimes as obvious as a fish print on a flowy mini dress, or hats trimmed with fishing nets and sometimes just subtly referencing it as with the traditional Japanese Geta shoes making sure the wearer’s feet don’t get wet. The highlight was a jacket made from Tatami, a sturdy material made from rice straw used to floor homes, but which made for a stunning architectural silhouette with added zippers and the sleeves only half attached. On a recent store tour in Los Angeles we saw several Setchu racks and the way the garment comes to the store is pristine and speaks of very high production value.
Setchu Men’s S/S 2027
Oceanic influences
Standout look of Setchu’s Men’s S/S 2027 collection
Paul Smith
What an end to day two here in Milan. The heat must have gotten to Mr. Smith as well, as most ties couldn’t be bothered to be tied setting an overall relaxed and easy-going spirit for his S/S 2027 collection. Paul Smith generally applied a muted color palette to his efficient thirty look lineup. Starting out with some grey and beige hues and some pops of soft yellows, the show progressed into a dark-grey, brown and black direction, like a high-brow crocodile-leather jacket or the more everyday military outerwear styles with a couple of extra patch pockets in the front and back. But the styling here is what made this collection stand out. Finely knitted camisoles were put on top of striped shirts and tucked into belted balloony pants. Very cool. Layering duffle coats in thin cottons worn together with knee-length shorts. Even cooler. In Germany we say: Augenschmaus.
Paul Smith Men’s S/S 2027
Untied ties
Well-thought-out styling
Our favorite look
