Simone Bellotti is a designer who can hold a thought and then works methodically and meticulously through the framework and codes of a house like Jil Sander. For his first collection the thought was to filter the essence of the house and create space with cut-outs and slashes and he rendered a pure 90’s influenced Jil Sander collection representing the period when the brand ruled fashion and mattered most. Now his thought was to break out of the minimal and straight lines and add curves and fluidity. Very simple but achieved precisely with a fantastic, tailored collection which had more fabric on garments than it should, hence an extremely elongated silhouette with jackets that nearly touched the knee and fabric folds on the back to add an ethos of more is more.

Sticking to his surgical approach of undusting the roots, he looked at images from Anders Petersen’s book Café Lehmitz which portrays suited up dwellers of Hamburg’s Reeperbahn district. Let’s not forget, his first brand initiative was a movie he premiered in Hamburg last summer which captured the city’s icons like the harbor. The terrific casting with models like Veronika Kunz, Élise Crombez, Guinevere van Seenus and Natasha Poly underlined his penchant for a more mature woman who wants to dress to enhance her body and not flaunt it, resulting in a tour de force of tailoring where multiple button, single-breasted coats and jackets ruled the lineup. Bellotti mentioned to have used home furnishing fabrics and reweaved them in lighter versions to enhance a notion of comfort. In his mind the outfit becomes a wearable home that you feel cozy in or want to break out from.