What’s the definition of a modern gentleman’s wardrobe? One only has to ask Véronique Nichanian, who designed the Hermès men’s universe for more than three decades (38 years) and she would probably give the following answer. Above all, clear lines which she has been sticking to all her career. Never any play with exaggerated or heightened volumes. Not her cup of tea. Of course, she has a penchant for pinstripes, and they dotted pretty much all her shows that we have witnessed in the past two decades at ACHTUNG. For her last show – Hermès Men’s F/W 2026 – she went as far as including a double-breasted suit in pinstriped leather no less. Also, a secret recipe: Color to bring a collection alive, where she often preferred citrus fruit accents, such as strong lemons or oranges in nearly neon hues at times but always used with modesty. Yesterday’s show stayed in black, grey and navy territory with a few yellowish curries in outerwear.

And, if you ever shot Hermès men’s wear pieces for an editorial then you know that the leathery outside surfaces were always met with the same level of detail when designing the interiors of a garment. Nylon linings, secret pockets, subtle branding, airy interfaces and often Nichanian made reversible pieces like her cashmere and wool travel coats in yesterday’s collection. Her grand finale was not conceived as a best of but an all-new collection where she showed off Hermès’ special skills in treating leather. She even went as far as doing a black crocodile coat. The shearling knitwear with woolen fronts and high necks with side zipper placements in two tones were stand out. And here is a personal anecdote which speaks for Nichanian’s design wit. Many moons ago when we did a big story on her, she sent a black cashmere cardigan as a gift afterwards. But on the shoulder was a giant spider jacquard which threw a web over the sleeve. Whimsical, technical, material driven or about cut and line, her Hermès was always about real but desirable clothes. And then a Paul Weller concert as farewell – hard to top. Merci beaucoup, Véronique.