While Milan is abuzz about Giorgio Armani’s absence from taking the bow at the end of his Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani men’s shows this season, the company and his team around Leo Dell’Orco put forth the best argument to silence the succession rumors. They put on a great show full of fluid tailoring in kaleidoscopic reliefs, crisp silks, and linens with a festive walk through the Medina vibe. It was Emporio at its best. Northern Africa has long been a territory of inspiration for the designer and the rustic tobacco hued linen suits with subtle stripes which opened the show were ultra-masculine and happening. Armani is one of the only designers who has always believed in skull caps for women and men and made them a highlight here. Even the show space in Tadao Ando’s all concrete architecture on via Bergognone was transformed into a lofty tent pitched in the middle of the desert atmosphere. After all, Dell’Orco has taken a habit of taking bows with Mr. Armani and has overseen the men’s universe for decades. Just after winning the scudetto with SSC Napoli, the Emporio Armani universe continues cleverly to lean into the sports world with an opening of a long-distance running, camping and mountain climbing gear clad army of models. A not-so-subtle comment on how important functional survival gear is in certain corners of the world at the moment.

The tailoring?

The collarless jackets with multi button closings often layered were the guiding principle of the suiting and a mega rich accessorizing for Emporio standards with necklaces with multi charms, tunics made of feathers, leather key chains buttoned to jacket holes or tassel clog mules continued the new elevated status of the collection since last season’s ultra-rich velvet outing. Billowing with movement as if a desert wind blew through the space was the motto here and was transported on the sound system for the opening.

The details?

This collection was all about the ground zero of summer dressing with collarless, all buttons open shirts, thick knits for maximum air penetration and three-dimensionality created by multi plissees on pants and jackets which added a serious focus on surface which was all over the collection especially in the stone embroidered finale on vests. Plus, elephants and giraffes were surprise motifs.

Newness?

The fine suede tunics in olive and brown worn over pants and multi pleated shawls plus the robust hemp and linen fabrics anchored the collection nicely in the mood of the season which is all about the big easy.