Zegna started the men’s fashion season with a show in Dubai last night which was all about easy, lived-in, and weathered pieces predominantly made from washed silks and crumpled linen which brought a whole new layer of expression into the generally rigid design world of Alessandro Sartori undoubtedly the most influential men’s designer in the world now. Let’s face it, fashion is in a bit of a crisis and the high price ticket brands are having a difficult moment with poor sales all over the world. Opening new markets is the name of the game and Zegna simply decided to stage a show where its new core client base is: The Middle East. The brand is in growth mode compared to its competitors since Gildo Zegna and Alessandro Sartori’s mammoth rebranding project from suit maker to men’s lifestyle brand is having real traction with strong ready to wear sales across all categories and the lace less triple stitch sneaker being a ubiquitous staple in airport lounges worldwide. Whether it is the Villa or Oasi Zegna concepts, the new branding on the back of coats and jackets that has made the brand more recognizable in unforeseen ways. It’s all clicking. Just look at Carlo Ancelotti chewing his gum on the sidelines of Real Madrid dressed in a coat with the double stripe which represents the road within Oasi Zegna.

Zegna’s S/S 2026 show held in Dubai

Sartori’s progression?

Always the son of a tailor mother who grew up next to the Zegna factory, fashion design is at the heart of Sartori’s work. Fluid lines and clear structure anchored by always bigger than the rest pockets evidenced in his love for the four-pocket field jacket. But now Sartori also brings in a cool singer like James Blake for a live concert and rehearses the theatrical part of the défilé like the real showman he has become who revels in taking his spin down the catwalk, yesterday in tandem with Blake. Or the splendid casting of the new Zegna gang is his brainchild.

The silhouette?

Sartori has been skewing his silhouette downwards with very low pockets on his jackets for an elongating effect. To hone in on the roomy and boxy vibe, Sartori only showed single-breasted jackets with two or four buttons to add structure. This feels like a new tailoring template.

The details?

Sartori can experiment like no other designer in the world as Zegna now also owns many other specialty manufacturers like Bonotto or Fedeli. His woven leather jackets and cardigans took luxury to a whole new level underlining the notion of super quality when building a wardrobe that lasts for a lifetime.