Paris F/W 2025 Highlights Day 5

Time machine Givenchy

In our humble opinion Bernard Arnault is so successful because he believes in history and roots for his brands more than anything. No other luxury conglomerate is as meticulous at shining up the past for their brands as LVMH. So, no surprise Arnault picked veteran designer Sarah Burton when she was free after Alexander McQueen because she is a master of nurturing roots. Burton’s steady and assured hand kept the house alive after the designer’s death. Burton who was named at Givenchy last September and had a full six months to prep, showed a debut collection which proved why she won the job. It was all about precision, silhouette, Couture and a time trip back to 1952, the year of Hubert de Givenchy’s first collection. Even better if the press notes can talk about a cache of patterns that were found in a hidden cupboard. Best storytelling ever, then enter Burton who says “To me, it’s about the atelier. It’s the heart and soul of Givenchy.” And so, her first look was a walking stockman embodied by Binx Walton in a racy black mesh knit bodice which underlines the starting point of all of Burton’s work – fittings on the stockman or model’s body. This set the tone for a collection which bared lots of waists, backs, and legs to bring a subversive sexuality to the Haute Couture Salons on Avenue George V. Burton also added a new conceptual layer here by adding powder cases as embroidery on tops and often reversing front and back on jackets and dresses. It was the most anticipated debut of the season and Burton scored a home run.

Sarah Burton‘s Givenchy runway debut

Givenchy F/W 2025

Powder cases as embroidery

The secret sauce?

Burton used a technical mesh knit for all her body con pieces in black, white, and yellow which gave strong structure and introduced a whole new sensual vibe to her oeuvre using a trumpet silhouette.

Mesh knit body in white

Trumpet silhouette

Burton’s signature?

Nobody does a perfecto biker jacket better than her. The best was in an hourglass shape shown as a mini dress which spoke volumes about Burton’s precision approach.

Burton’s signature visible in the perfecto leather jackets

Hourglass perfection 

Tailoring?

Ever the master tailor, the soft shoulders and cinched waist jackets were strongly structured using men’s tailoring techniques achieving an appealing soft meets hard edge. To underline this “fittings aspect”, Burton left many edges raw on her tailoring and sleeve seams swooped from back to front.

Men‘s tailoring techniques applied for women‘s jackets

Turned around jacket-dress

Best PR job?

After the show the audience was given the final fitting photos which are the holy grail for any designer positioned as a board in the backstage with precise notes on each outfit.

Fitting photos for the attendees