Lucie and Luke Meier generally look to the future when they concoct their collections for Jil Sander but this time they explored their old school analog side. Few designers can conjure up a whole new world with their shows, but the duo has by now reached a whole new level of storytelling and manage exactly that. Guests are welcomed on Sander planet where past notions of the brand are in the back mirror and a new clear picture has emerged: clear line tailoring, strong coloring, quirky details like trompe-l’œil pleats or exquisite photo screen printing and fine jewelry worthy of its own proper category and lots of emotion. By now, they command a custom-made show space with floral carpeting which showed up in the final look and a soundtrack by Benji B who explored the work of analog producer Johnny Jewel, whose scores found fame with the soundtrack of the movie Drive evoking happy solitude.
Jil Sander S/S 2025
Clear line tailoring
Exquisite photo screen printing
Fashion or not?
There is a distinction when it comes to tailoring. Is it fashion or not? In a season where suits have a major comeback on runways, the Meiers made the designer version for Jil Sander. Buttons disappear, pointed yokes are added, dry wool and silks are used on high-waisted pants with elaborate belt closings combined with snakeskin cowboy boots. Using very 90‘s iridescent fabrics made this a whole new proposition only designers and not suit companies can make.
Iridescent fabrics used for the show-opening tailored looks
High-waisted pants with elaborate belting details
Pointed yokes added on jackets
Photo printing?
The show invitation of a parked car on a deserted lot by Canadian photographer Greg Girard gave away the beauty in solitude vibe the show was channeling and as an unexpected twist the Meiers used photo printing on their final garments.
Lots of photo printed fabrics
Image by the Canadian photographer Greg Girard
Our favorite?
The cool version of sweater sets, and ribbed knits showed how much of a knitwear brand Jil Sander has become. But a red patent leather trench coat worn with red shirt and tie seemed to walk right out of the photos of Greg Girard.
Jil Sander’s knack for knit
Knitted sweater sets
Our favorite look: Red patent leather trench coat over red shirt and tie
