There is a growing consensus among international fashion editors and buyers that Ottolinger has become one of the most interesting fashion labels in the world now. Their collections like the one shown yesterday in Paris in a dilapidated building on Boulevard Haussmann are disturbing, deconstructed and hard to find words for which is maybe why their look is still catching on and spreading like wildfire because people cannot quite understand or label it yet. What GmbH is for men, Ottolinger is for women. At least when it comes to international fashion from Berlin which is on the Paris calendar. It kind of looks like a club, Y2K, sexy, dystopian but with intense craftsmanship. And you would imagine that they both have years of working at Margiela on their resume, especially after this more tailored collection with its open shoulder pads and pant waists used as skirts.
Ottolinger had a more tailored-focus approach this season
Ottolinger F/W 2024
Pants waists as mini skirts
Currently working with Puma on special projects, they also used this show to use a Swiss Alpine farmer inspired collection preview with Swisscom called 079. Their commercial muscle is being flexed with off the beaten path projects. Behind their designs there is enormous textile expertise and a knowledge of what is currently fashionable, especially social debates when it comes to women’s bodies. Ottolinger’s dresses often have cutouts and slits in the wrong and therefore exactly right places, or even no fabric at all. Today’s woman determines her own neckline, cleavage and plays with the cliché of sexiness. Fashion is tailored for freedom. Breaking away from conventions is at the heart of their work and they have one of the only true body positive runways seasons after season and not just to meet the quota.
Classic Ottolinger silhouette with shoulder slit
The Berlin based brand is know for playing with the cliché of sexiness and their great eye for credible contemporary casting
Always a great eye for contemporary casting
Hello fox?
This show with its usage of real ties and tie printed bodystockings saw another nice element of elevation using several fox stoles and shawls which added a new element to their oeuvre.
The tie details
Fox stoles and shawls
The tailoring?
As the show notes stated that with each tailored piece, chaos finds its place, this show seemed to have an extra effort in tailoring. There was a beautiful elongated double breasted pea coat in wool and faux fur with below the waist belting and the same two pea coats in a shorter version and several interesting tweed jackets.
Tweed at Ottolinger F/W 2024
Faux fur pea coats
