The moment of the super show space erection continues. After Dior built a major temporary show space in the Tuileries in the afternoon, Saint Laurent followed up last night with one in the Champ de Mars next to the Eiffel tower. All black wood with shiny surfaces, modern furniture, giant bottle green jacquard curtains and loosely modeled after the maximum dimensions of the Neue Nationalgalerie where the men’s show took place last June in Berlin, it provided an ample showcase for Anthony Vaccarello’s tour de force in sexy and sheer tailoring. Nothing is quiet here but it’s in your face luxury. Changing sides of the river Seine from the 16th to the 7 arrondisement didn’t change anything in this Saint Laurent’s attitude towards women. It’s about extreme body con clothing which is grounded in the 70’s and the days of sexual liberation. Every cut is created to expose and enhance the female figure and celebrate it and responds to the urgency of the world we live in. The moment to make an impression is now not tomorrow as there might be none is the motto. Saint Laurent is for self expression. The Saint Laurent woman wants to be looked at and she can easily return the gaze with confidence. While beautiful clothes with sex appeal are having a comeback on runways, Vaccarello plays in his very own league by making clear that Saint Laurent has always had the final word on what’s chic. When everyone shows flat shoes or a kitten heel, he is back at the maximum height heels which could serve as weapon.
Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent F/W 2024 collection was sheer, sexy and chic.
The pencil skirt and nature?
Vaccarello was brave enough to dare a complete repetition show by anchoring it in pencil skirts slightly below the knee in sheer jersey fabrics held together by a tiny belt that exposed the black underwear. They were combined with sheer blouses with tight foulards around the neck which fully exposed the models’ breasts.
Sheer pencil skirts
Tight foulard-esque collars
The garter belts?
Further dipping into the female boudoir with this show, Vaccarello showed a series of looks with exposed garter belts. As they came straight out of the silk blouses, one could call them garter belt dresses.
Exposed garter belts
Silk blouses
The new signature?
Razor sharp and oversize tailoring has become a hallmark for Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, and he achieves his maximum gestures by approaching his jackets like giant coats with wide lapels and big pockets.
Heavy coating
Oversized tailoring
