The devil is in the details and fashion’s latest devil is called Luca Magliano who has the gift of charisma with his moustache, energetic body language and closely cropped hair. He took over a big indoor stadium in Florence as the headliner of this 105th edition of Pitti Uomo using a giant staircase to dramatic proportion where his models first descended and then walked up creating a cinematic moment. Building his image around the idea of inclusion as in his multiethnic and ageless casting, the usage of workman safety shoes, references to the lesbian poetess Patrizia Cavalli or the soundtrack by Fabrizio di André whose song “Domenica delle Salme” closed the show and is a metaphor for embracing society outcasts, Magliano also made a deft proposition for Made in Italy by partnering with Kiton and Borsalino for tailoring and hats. “I want to bring a radical approach to these companies to bring them forward” he explained. In his case the classic Neapolitan shape was worn by a female figure with the usage of a binder to flatten the chest.
Magliano partnered with Kiton and Borsalino for tailoring and hats
Usage of a binder to flatten the chest
What’s good?
Here is a designer who is good at the little details like making great denim and knitwear in somber colors. His jeans are padded and laminated around the waist or a gray mohair sweater with a kid drawn like image of a giant cat looked great.
Padded and laminated jeans around the waist
A gray mohair sweater with a kid drawn like image of a giant cat
A key element?
Magliano seems obsessed with scarves as they snake in and out of jackets’ button holes around the neck or even around a waistband on a bomber jacket. Another key element is his layering of half sweaters around the neck and generally lets the garments hang askew on the body for an unseen look.
Usage of scarves
Layering of half sweaters around the neck as a key element
Not so good?
The diverse cast often resembled Dead Men Walking as they strode slowly through the audience in stark contrast to the energetic and rising Magliano himself.
The set for Magliano F/W 2024
Suzy Menkes and Luca Magliano after the show
Magliano F/W 2024
