Paris S/S 2024 Highlights Part 2

When the clothes speak the loudest

In the day and age of the super front row and the accompanying photographer mayhem (see Julia Roberts at Gucci) and the super location where the Jardin de Tuileries is taken over by Dior so they can build a black box as show set (yes, not even a see through roof or any hint the audience was in a garden) which must have cost a lot of money and of course had even a bigger celebrity mayhem, it is reassuring to know that Dries Van Noten who is on top of his industry and whose show is visited by every editor and buyer who matters (and not celebrities), loves to choose bare industrial construction sites as show venues. Places that are about to change after the renovation just like his collections change every six months. And he kept it very basic as he explained backstage after the show. “I wanted an elegant take on men’s wear and avoid any kind of embellishment.” So the collection revolved around long elegant coats, chinos, oversized jackets, often English school blazers and rugby stripes. Everything had a worn in and weathered look, which was the point as most of the garments were washed even stone washed before. Let’s just say the bare environment helped to focus on the one thing a fashion show should still be about: the clothes and they spoke very loud.

Long elegant coats

Oversized jackets

English school blazers and rugby stripes

The starting point?

The gabardine of a chino used in an over the knee pleated skirt combined with a long trench coat and then shown with a bra top was what got the show started and set the mood for Van Noten. Cool, clever and a little bit naughty.

Look #1 at Dries Van Noten S/S 2024: Over the knee pleated skirt combined with a long trench coat and a bra top

Denim core?

Van Noten sent out a few great denim combos, which were all stonewashed. One jacket with Pagoda shoulders where the horsehair inlays were eschewed came with cool shorts and one floor length denim coat – both were showstoppers.

Pagoda shoulders

Floor length denim coat

Some other highlights?

Van Noten has a loyal following for his tailoring, where the reverse white-collar has become a brand marker. He sent out a large selection of double-breasted jackets all in maximum proportion plus some cool rugby stripe sweatpants in his closing look.

White collar

Double-breasted jacket in maximun proportion

Rugby stripe sweatpants in his closing look

Dries Van Noten after his S/S 2024 show