There is a new energy to New York fashion week as the entire country seems to be shopping up a storm at department stores and from e-tailers. The American economy is working, and the people are eager to spend their money, preferably on US designers. This is good news and hence there are more shows here than in any other major fashion city. And Ralph, Calvin or Tommy are not even showing.  The Row is growing and growing, Amiri men’s wear sells like hot cakes while even newer labels like LaQuan Smith are catering to a loyal following who like to spend big. Or how could one explain the staggering number of nearly one-hundred-million-dollar turnover at Khaite. There are weddings and family parties and cross-country weekend trips that need a proper wardrobe. While all the European houses are experiencing their biggest growth in America as well, think Brunello Cuccinelli or Loro Piana, it’s the New York designers who also get their fair share. As this is the first season with Thom Browne at the head of the CFDA, it’s a good moment to measure up the creativity of what we have seen here. Talking about Browne again. With his investment from Zegna, he is poised to be the first American designer who has a serious business in Europe with a respected slot on the Paris calendar.

Batsheva

We have been going to fashion weeks here for more than two decades and have seen many New York intellectually bent labels and designers. In the 90’s it was ORFI (Organization for returning fashion interest), the Bernadette Corporation, Imitation of Christ or As Four to name the best. Current Eckhaus Latta or Telfar seem to go in a similar vein as well as Batsheva which rose to fame because the Vice President’s stepdaughter Ella Imhoff was involved. The Batsheva presentation where models stood in front of their garment racks (think a backstage situation) and interacted with the crowd was big on emotion and short on fashion. The pieces looked like a romp through a Lower East Side flea market with a focus on the 70’s. A bit disappointing we felt.

Coach

Stuart Vevers is turning Coach more and more into a sustainable brand where a big section of his knitwear was made from old yarns and the sneakers got their skin from old Coach bags. His grunge inspired non-gender collection looked terrific. Even more forward, Vevers used the exact same skirt for men and women, a below the knee and slit open in the back number which he sent out in brown and black leathers. It looked great but will it go down well in the Bible Belt where clients are saving for the It-status bag which generally is from Coach?

LaQuan Smith

Oh, what a showman this designer is, exuberantly throwing off his coat while taking his bow after the show. Smith impressively organized the Rainbow Room in Rockefeller center as show location and even served his own branded caviar and champagne before the show. His body-con leather and tuxedo looks were sexy on the eye but didn’t look too well made. Smith has a loyal following we hear but simply needs a few more ideas other than closely watching what designers like Mugler, Dion Lee or Nensi Dojaka are doing. But the designer puts his money where his mouth is and while everyone who can afford her is using Irina Shayk, Smith went with a mostly local and honest casting. We met two non-fraternal twins from the Bronx who modeled in the show in the elevator.

Palomo Spain

What a wonderful original designer Alejandro Gómez Palomo is. Subverting the traditional codes of men’s wear is his mission, and he has been successfully plying his trade with debut shows in Paris and then Madrid during the pandemic. Gómez can be relied on for a childlike joy of fashion to explore the notion of modern masculine dressing and turn them upside down. Case in point his floor length dresses worn with bomber jackets and his multitude of historical references like exaggerated lapels. His collab with Puma is also going strong and will be dropping new styles soon.