In a world where souped-up sportswear dominates men’s wear and its catwalks – we think Amiri, Casablanca, Off-White, Marcelo Burlon and so on – it’s good to know that Walter van Beirendonck is still plying his trade. Yesterday’s show was a master class in club and sportswear including lots of his irreverent messages written and printed across the garments as well as funny padding with customized water wings. “We need new Eyes”, “Save the Future” and “No War” slogans are as obvious as they sound but Beirendonck doesn’t tire.
Classic Walter Van Beirendonck messaging
Interesting details
It’s part of his design universe which he built over decades and the fact that he takes on the challenge of bringing out something new every season was underlined by the skeleton approach to the collection. The framework for his tailoring and blousons was taken from an anatomy class where the ribcage and spine literally were exposed to make for interesting cutouts in the garments. Let’s not forget this is the man who famously called out Virgil Abloh for copying his designs and who taught legions of students as the head of the fashion department at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. A real designer in a sea of stylists. Long time advocator of gay rights and inclusivity, Beirendonck delivered this hit show just in time to underline his cult status as the Avant Guardian that he is (and let’s not forget as original member of the Antwerp Six).
Beirendonck took inspiration from the human anatomy
Still at the rave?
Van Beirendonck is all about brash and colorful pieces like color-blocked wool leggings and cardigans and suiting. Of course, toying with ideas of identity and masculinity is the point.
Clever color-blocking
Devil in the detail?
What looked like children’s book horse heads swirling all over the knitwear and connecting in front and back were in fact 11th century frescoes from a Puglian cathedral Beirendonck visited several times and had hand drawn himself.
11th century Puglian frescoes
Hand sketched by Walter Van Beirendonck for F/W 2023
The crowd?
Judging from the legions of students and fans waiting outside dressed head to toe in his gear, the Belgian still knows how to connect. In fact, his clubbing boots are literally spitting fire.
Walter Van Beirendonck after his F/W 2023 men’s show
Walter explaining his fresco print to our reviewer. Shot by Anett-Patrice van York.
