It had to be for a good reason that editors ventured 120 kilometers out of Milan to see a fashion show on a Milan men’s weekend, which was dominated by searing heat. Alessandro Sartori for Zegna had the nerve to do this because he knew how much the fashion pack would love the calming and serene atmosphere of the company’s factory which is connected to Oasi Zegna a 100km² large natural reserve which was started by Ermenegildo Zegna, the founder of the textile mill which was turned into a fashion company under his son Gildo and has become a precursor of where men’s wear is going under Sartori. Zegna is the only one of the traditional men’s wear makers who has managed a turn around and is growing at a phenomenal speed. How Sartori has turned the company upside down together with Gildo and has ushered in a new era of tailoring which is defined by a new silhouette and essentially separates dressing. It is also a master class in succession within a family business with Gildo’s son Edoardo in charge of marketing and based in London and Anna Zegna hosting the evening’s post show dinner party.
Location for Zegna men’s S/S 2023
What’s behind it all?
Sartori is a tailor and very technical designer, so showing the proximity to the factory of the yarns was on his heart. Basically, he pulled off this collection using knitwear for the tailored silhouettes. Needless to say this provides unprecedented ease and comfort, which is one of the key factors to bring a new generation into wearing a suit. His first look of a white single-breasted suit with sweeping pants was even made from terry cloth.
The opening terry cloth look
Knitwear
The excitement?
Sartori has anchored his neo tailoring in roomy pants with a generously falling hem, oversized tops as T-Shirts with big pockets, workwear jackets and a new two-button, single-breasted jacket. All in the colors of the Oasi environment like beige and tobacco with the zingy use of two different yellows and shades of black. The elegance whispers, the new suit moves forward.
Oversized pockets on T-Shirts
Zingy colors
Zegna men’s S/S 2023 parade
Alessandro Sartori, creative director of Zegna
