Yohji Yamamoto S/S 2017

About the purpose of going to menswear Paris Fashion Week

This is why one comes to Paris menswear. To see collections of consequence, where great designers produce shows bursting with ideas like Mr. Yamamoto. As Yohji Yamamoto reminded us in a spring 2017 collection of great charm, one where the greatest inspiration was the designer himself.

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Collections like these is what we want to see

Yohji plastered his face all over the backs of some truly fabulous long coats, in which a half dozen models finished the show. Made in a mix of pinstripe, silk and dry wool in contrasting colors, they all looked fantastic. Many of their backs bore drawings of Yohji with his signature beard and trilby hat with graffiti phrases like “Wait Until Dark.”

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Yohji Yamamoto used himself as a motif

“Our men’s collections are selling incredibly well. So I felt I had to take the mickey out of myself just a little,” smiled the gentlemanly grandfather designer.

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Fake beards and bandaged faces

The collection was a triumph of cutting and avant-tailoring: the off-the-shoulder sill fracks, the Samurai pants, the elongated dhotis and professors gowns. All worn with a dashing casting of models with fake beards and bandaged faces, a trick telegraphed by the black invitation which came covered in Band Aids.