Versace F/W 2017
Ferrari red leather moment in the gym
Last September in women’s Versace jumbled up active sportswear with strict yet sensual chic in one of the most important collections of the season. This January in Milan, the house also mixed up similar ideas in its men’s collection.
Models marched along the radial catwalk underneath a huge wooden gazebo, made of light plywood in which the house’s Medusa’s head was stenciled out. Just like the invitation for this show, staged like recent Versace men’s shows inside a giant show space in the Fiera di Milano.
For fall, Versace offered contemporary versions of its classic: bold topcoats; dramatic hot red leather driving coats; boxy hound’s tooth suits and patent leather hooded safaris. The athletic mood was seen in revamped sky pants split at the ankle, hooded slickers or high-tech hiking boots. Tough enough for the mountains, though meant to be worn in a nightclub. However, the stand out look was a fabulous dinner jacket finished with a magnificent fresco print.
Quite why half the models were styled with their hair waxed and thrown forward was hard to comprehend. However, this was certainly a commercial collection whose target was far more the bottom line than media headlines.
The show came at a delicate moment of repositioning of Versace. The house cancelled its haute couture show in Paris, and is placing more emphasis on its next Versus show, which will feature a collaboration with rocker Zayn.
La Donatella took her bow to much applause, but then in another break with tradition left the space immediately without greeting any editors or fans.