Versace F/W 2015

The big V goes for the big T

Versace and tailoring is a big story. Just as Armani conquered the world with his soft silhouettes, Gianni Versace ruled the 80’s and 90’s with his sharp looks. Big shoulders, elongated waists and lots of Medusa gold buttons were the house’s signatures. Under Donatella’s leadership, the house smartly re-visits the archives, but of late the men’s shows have been skin shows referencing the Miami years with printed silk shirts, shorts and underwear. Buffed boys ruled.

v1 Versace
No color, no prints, no logo: welcome the new Versace man

 

Not this season. With an industrial catwalk in the house’s headquarters on via Gesu in front of a smart set, Donatella zeroed in on suits and coats. “No color, no prints, no logo. Just clean, and with lots of beige,” exclaimed the blondest of the blondes after her show. And indeed we have not seen such a clean Versace runway in a long time. Slim-fitting two button jackets with gold buttons, fur-lined statement coats and of course plenty of astrakhan and white mink coats crowded the runway for this strong show.

v2 Versace
The house’s DNA hidden in subtle details: buttons and delicate necklaces in gleaming gold

 

Humungous bags hung from their hands; superhero boots anchored their looks; and a truly delightful new scarf meets bomber jackets wrapped around their shoulders. And –testifying to a huge Milan trend – many models marched in trim jogging pants or ribbed leggings. This is the big news in Milan – Saturday morning, throw-together nonchalance is back.

v4 Versace
Shades of beige for Italian winter days

 

Even the Medusa logo was tamed way down. This show’s version was made of scaffolding tubes like the backdrop of a rock festival. The models even hid en masse behind the Roman head as Donatella took her bow. The applause was suitably noisy, the mood was fresh.

v5 Versace
Fur-lined statement coat