This is Paris / Part 2
Guillaume Henry hits the sweet spot of subversive sexyness for Nina Ricci in his second collection for the house
Nina Ricci is a storied Parisian house with a boutique on the best corner of Avenue Montaigne. Under the guidance of now gone missing designer Olivier Theyskens it was known for edgy avant-garde clothes, followed by Peter Copping who made it classy and high-end but a tad too boring and now with Parisian designer Guillaume Henry at the helm, it is shining again. With his second collection for the house, the designer presented a mature, focused and subversively sexy show which had all the right ingredients for a fashion moment: expensive fabrics, cool shapes and lots of sizzle and shine from a house which is supposed to own boudoir chic.
In Henry’s hands the boudoir girl has been replaced by a sensual Parisian woman who proudly walks the nighttime streets on her way to a secret date. Meaning less bras and garters and more sportswear infused reality. “This is my second rendez-vous with the Ricci woman and I wanted to make her appear more clear. It’s like a woman who applies nail polish all over, we put a subtle surface shine on all the fabrics.” A standout skirt suit in bottle green, a color Henry used throughout the show, made in real ostrich and then painted to shine like fake animal skin was the ultimate tongue in cheek luxury statement. Ostrich was also used in boxy coats, which fell easy on the body.
Henry is looking for a more forgiving, off the body silhouette in a radical but necessary departure from the past. Clearly, he is having fun with his new ateliers. In his Carven days he was constricted to work with standard embellishments, now he can shrink mountains of georgette to make multi crinkle dresses or apply feather inserts all over the body.
Henry amped up the sex factor with plenty of transparent tops and skirts in primal colors which revealed the models breasts and crotches. “I double-checked with every girl if she felt comfortable being so exposed and they were all fine and happy to show off,” explained a beaming Henry post show. He closed the show with an outstanding paper-thin red leather dress with a gigantic V-cleavage cutout.
We were happy to meet the new Ricci woman who is proudly in charge of her sensuality and loves to show it. Parisian fashion at its best. No wonder Henry’s mood board was full of Romy Schneider at her height photos and we were happy to notice a few Nadja Auermann looking her very best images as well.