The London Street Versus Jermyn Street

The cool, the bold and the boring at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017

Agi & Sam

A neat balance of street and chic at Agi & Sam in a Saturday morning show with lots of pep. Smeared camouflage suits, with jackets cut like delivery men; padded bowling jackets or a fab one-meter-long T-Shirt with an image of Dell-Boy Trotter. From cult TV show Only Fools and Horses about two boys from Peckham determined to make their fortune. A very insider English joke, and all the better for it. Best of all, reconfigured Eisenhower jackets in putty and pink – cleverly cut and very wearable.

These local award winners also introduced women’s wear, most notably a beautiful Chesterfield check combo, knee-length skirt and bomber/cape finished with midriff elastic stripes. Worn on a blonde Asian model, the sort any intelligent man would want to date. Accomplished and cool, Agi & Sam are a fashion house with a future.

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Jermyn Street St James’s

We do love coming to London, but. Designed as a showcase for classic British fashion fare, the multi-brand show Jermyn Street St James’s was a travesty of editing and styling. Staged on a mini runway set on legendary menswear Mecca, Jermyn Street, this was an incoherent mish-mash, devoid of fashion news and failing in its desired goal – to highlight the skills and classicism of British gentleman tailoring. Instead, we got all-white linen suits worn on models that looked like the unemployed butler of a deposed African dictator; distressingly predictable linen suits, whose cuts were in fashion when the UK voted itself into Europe four decades ago. A clever casting and one truly fabulous brocade dressing gown from New & Lingwood provided a smidgen of relief, but not near enough. Talk about an incompetent runway show.

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Nasir Mazhar

Cut outs galore at Nasir Mazhar in his warrior in an Urban Jungle collection. Mazhar mixed up large-format camouflage for nylon tanks, multi-pocket cargo pants and some sensational boxer shorts – made in layers of mesh and stain. Built on top of Terminator buckle boots the collection had plenty of kick. A blend of the bold and the absurd. Quite which young man – or woman – will wear his cut out parachute nylon ballet shorts was hard to imagine. However, his show was a jolt of energy in a low-key London season which has underperformed so far.

london fashion week