Salvatore Ferragamo S/S 2017

Fresh wind on a formerly fuzzy catwalk

“Everything must change in order to remain the same“, Giuseppe de Lampedusa once wrote in a famous aphorism on the Italian psyche. He clearly didn’t have Salvatore Ferragamo in mind.

In the past two months, the house has witnessed the departure of both its creative director, Massimiliano Giornetti, and CEO, Michele Norsa. Their leaving has already dramatically shaken things up at this storied house. Giornetti for professional and Norsa for personal reasons.

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Pants in striped linens and safari jackets with mini brooches, seen at the Salvatore Ferragamo SS17 show

That much was abundantly clear at Ferragamo’s menswear runway show this Sunday in Milan, where a nonchalant wind blew the cobwebs of a collection that had become far too restrained and posed in recent seasons.

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Silk shirt and blouson with squiggles

On the catwalk, the models walked around in a collection defined by a generous sense of volume. Splendid long, pleated pants done in super striped linens used as base for great new military parka meets safari jackets. Along with some supple lambskin jerkins in a putty color finished with charming primitive squiggles and mini brooches, and attractive silk print shirts it made for a fresh approach. All very cool global nomad, especially considering the truly humungous backpacks Ferragamo showed – a major trend in Europe this season. Though this is a global adventurer who only stays in five-star hotels and boutique spas.

Essentials for the global adventurer
Essentials for the global adventurer

The elegant influence of Ferragamo’s long time stylist, French gentlemanly dandy Serge Girardi, apparent in both the refined silhouette and smartly understated editing.

A subtle change of gears at Salvatore Ferragamo, where the hand of communications director Michela Ratti was also apparent.  Seeing as also on display was our old buddy, James Rousseau, the devilishly handsome Brit’ songwriter and model, who has become the face of Ferragamo’s fall 2016 ad campaign. Again, a smart move that will help to update a label that had become too predictably Tuscan bourgeois in the past few years.  All change, then, precisely not to remain too much the same.