Guillaume Meilland cut some great new suits done with high yet pleated trousers and two or three-button jackets

Salvatore Ferragamo F/W 2017

“I wanted to imagine how Salvatore himself might have dressed if he were in urban America today,” explained finely mannered Guillaume Meilland, after an accomplished debut for the house of Salvatore Ferragamo.

The result; a bustling show of busy gents, who marched around the Borsa di Milano, in crisp tailoring and authoritative outerwear. The whole mood was one of a young gentleman celebrating his success; but also of an immigrant fitting in. Like the founder, who ventured all the way to Los Angeles from his native Naples as he built his luxury marque, Meilland spent time honing his talent at Lanvin and Yves Saint Laurent in Paris before joining Ferragamo. He cut some great new suits – especially his elongated versions, done with high yet pleated trousers and two or three-button jackets with clever long lapels.

Meilland sent out Aran Island knit gloves and town coats

Plus this designer – himself an immigrant as French man in Florence – has a sense of humor. Finishing breast pockets with mini pins and hearts; playing with a new logo; inventing a new bold F, which he placed on chunky, knits and sending out Aran Island knit gloves.

Ferragamo has always been about rich leather resources, and a series of brushed suede bomber jackets and coats – some with saddle stitching – packed the most punch in this show.

That said, the show was too long and repetitive at the finale – overburdened with predictable town coats. However, that quibble aside, in our view, Salvatore would have liked, and yes worn, these clothes, as Meilland drove this Florentine house’s DNA somewhere new.