Sacai S/S 2016
Japanese lesson in layering
Now that’s what we call a men’s fashion moment. Summer layering, ethnic-inspired drifters, beat poets of the 21st century and literary surfers, all met in the Bourse de Commerce in central Paris for the latest show by Sacai.
Met is perhaps an exaggeration. Rather the cast circled around like small gangs that never quite greeted each other as they crossed the ornately tiled floor of this beautiful building.
There are few more fertile imaginations in fashion than that of Sacai founder and designer Chitose Abe. Her clothes are really fashion fusion, an amalgam of ideas, eras and materials, rarely more so than in this show. Hence the assemblage of Rob Roy tartan parkas with motorbike zip trim; leaf print T-Shirts; Navajo blanket Donkey Jackets and ponchos; khaki safari jackets topped with blue plasticized shoulders and funky broken plain shorts. All anchored by sandy construction boots on models whose necks were swathed in silk scarves and fabric necklaces.
If that sounds all rather complicated that’s because it was, but the sense of artistic dash and the bravura use of color made this a wonderfully fresh approach to menswear. Presented beneath the truly beautiful ceiling fresco of French traders braving the planet – from the Artic to the rum plantations of the Caribbean – it seemed like new vista and an exhibition of poetic charisma. Which made every member of the audience leave the show with a smile on their face.