Rick Owens S/S 2016
Chamberlain Car Crash Clothes
An icon of military heroism and counterintuitively, the peace movement, the M65 jacket was the central core of the latest Rick Owens show, and it was all the better for that.
Owens, being Rick, took the famed jacket – recognizable for its high-collar and strict square shoulders – into very new territory. His sense of novel finish – anthracite hued leather and tunic like silhouette felt right on but gave the omnipresent military trend on runways a new twist.
Generally Owens spins his own fashion tale of long shapes in leathers and distressed denims in mineral colors and black with shorts that look like skirts. He is at the forefront of the androgyny trend in fashion and often let’s contemporary art rev up his runway. Also, this time with John Chamberlain car crash like sculptures that made the front of tunics and jackets in beautiful metallic hues of orange and blue.
But anchoring his designs with a recognizable item like the M65 jacket channeled this designer’s energies in fresh new fashion territory. At this moment in fashion time, Owens is one of the most influential designers in the world.
Rather absurdly, one model took it into his own head to march with a white sheet on which was scrawled: “Please Kill Angela Merkel Not.” Which led to a press release by Owens PR team strongly underlining the designer had not condoned the remarks. But not before, Owens laughed into this reviewer’s iPhone. “This is an official announcement to Godfrey Deeny. I had nothing to do with this!”