Rick Owens F/W 2015

Upside down Rick you turn me

“Nothing like a cock to get the party started,” laughed Rick Owens backstage after his men’s show inspired by a sub-marine movie so obscure, nobody seemed to have heard of it. But whose real star was the semi-exposed male artillery.

Owens sub-mariners got a little mangled as they exited their craft, as overalls and boiler suits re-merged form the depth with their legs as sleeves, and their necklines around the crotch. Hence the manhood flaunted on the catwalk in a memorable exposé in the Palais de Tokyo.

 

Black leather pea coat by Rick Owens
Black leather pea coat by Owens

Owens was very much in line with an early trend in Paris – skirts, skorts and kilts for men done in mammoth exercises in deconstruction. Seeing as Dries Van Noten would tap into a similar mood later in the day.

 

The look is swinging Rick Owens
The look is swinging

With tentacles for arms and coat shoulders sweeping the floor this was deconstruction to the max, though in highly graphic form – as many khaki looks were jazzed up with geometrical white stripes. Backed up by a hefty industrial soundtrack by Texas duo Bames, it was a cinematic moment of fashion. One figure even appeared in wonderfully way out there overalls composed of rumpled “turbo cable” knits. His crotch cut like a body bag. Anchored by some great new architectural heeled sneakers from adidas, this was survivalist chic at its most dramatic.

 Rick Owens r4
Looks like a painting, Owens is perfecting the panel look in muted colors

 

If all that gives the impression that this was a wacky show, that’s because it was. But it also boasted some brilliant flared, nautical pea-cuts that had panache and cool gravitas, as well as a series of brilliant posh mega patchwork tunics in the very fabrics Joseph Beuys would have love – felt, matelassé silk and matt Berber wool.

“It was about adversity, and either overcoming pressure or facing defeat with nobility,” explained Owens, which is what his cast did on a chilly morn in Paris.