Rick Owens F/W 2015
Upside down Rick you turn me
“Nothing like a cock to get the party started,” laughed Rick Owens backstage after his men’s show inspired by a sub-marine movie so obscure, nobody seemed to have heard of it. But whose real star was the semi-exposed male artillery.
Owens sub-mariners got a little mangled as they exited their craft, as overalls and boiler suits re-merged form the depth with their legs as sleeves, and their necklines around the crotch. Hence the manhood flaunted on the catwalk in a memorable exposé in the Palais de Tokyo.
Owens was very much in line with an early trend in Paris – skirts, skorts and kilts for men done in mammoth exercises in deconstruction. Seeing as Dries Van Noten would tap into a similar mood later in the day.
With tentacles for arms and coat shoulders sweeping the floor this was deconstruction to the max, though in highly graphic form – as many khaki looks were jazzed up with geometrical white stripes. Backed up by a hefty industrial soundtrack by Texas duo Bames, it was a cinematic moment of fashion. One figure even appeared in wonderfully way out there overalls composed of rumpled “turbo cable” knits. His crotch cut like a body bag. Anchored by some great new architectural heeled sneakers from adidas, this was survivalist chic at its most dramatic.
If all that gives the impression that this was a wacky show, that’s because it was. But it also boasted some brilliant flared, nautical pea-cuts that had panache and cool gravitas, as well as a series of brilliant posh mega patchwork tunics in the very fabrics Joseph Beuys would have love – felt, matelassé silk and matt Berber wool.
“It was about adversity, and either overcoming pressure or facing defeat with nobility,” explained Owens, which is what his cast did on a chilly morn in Paris.