Rick Owens F/W 2016
Legs Like Columns
Though tailor is not necessarily the first word that jumps to mind when considering Rick Owens, the latest menswear collection by the LA designer was a novel expression of post-Gothic tailoring at his most subtle and also absurd.
It could swing from the coolly sublime – a fiendishly well cut double-breasted that Beau Brummel would have loved had he been born in 21st century rock’n roll land – to the surreally bravura – a six-sleeve down parka that engulfed one model like a Science Fiction dream. Moreover, his key idea – cargo pants and Casey Jones overalls cut with legs as wide as Cathedral columns, were a stunning new take on menswear proportions.
Known mostly for his worn uber black aesthetic, Owens’ big palette choice this season was rust, preferably acid dyed. Most notably his overalls, worn with chess pieces like nubby knits that have a telling funky punch.