Prada F/W 2015
Black nylon cult gang
The invite was matt black in a priestly nylon, contained within the blackest fabric envelope.
In the inkiest of palettes, fashion’s greatest feminist; and subtlest thinker – Miuccia Prada, certamente – staged a menswear show Sunday night where half the collection was women’s clothes worn by Indie looking ladies, whose fabrics, colors, shapes and even detailing were largely the same as those worn by the guys in the same show.
The event broke lots of longstanding – albeit unwritten – house rules. Miuccia Prada never puts any program notes on any seat; however, this season the lady did – in a clear philosophical statement. It defined the show as “Prada’s analysis of the relationship between men and women.”
“I wanted to be on the record about my feelings about the link between how men and women dress. To me it’s very important,” she insisted. Miuccia occasionally builds in faux creases and wrinkles into her clothes, this time nearly every look included that insider effect. The designer was also determined to underline that these were not fall pre-collection looks for women.
“No! They are meant to relate to the menswear,” exclaimed an uber thin Prada, wearing a diamond pendant worth of a Renaissance queen and a dark kilt she acquired in a small village in the highlands of Scotland.
One of the pleasures of attending Prada menswear in January, is you get the first look at the latest new staging by fashion’s most arty and theatrical house. This year there was a triumphant mood to the enfilade of four circular rooms. Done in marble hued Formica, metal grills and diamond cut steel it was beautiful yet forbidding. And when DJ Frederic Sanchez’ mighty drumming soundtrack kicked in, deep in the low-ceilinged bowels of the last rooms, one felt a little trapped in an intergalactic prison. A sense of confinement yet also release, rather like this show – where the strict adherence to the house’s DNA for both sexes made for a liberating formality of dress.
Whether the flawlessly hung double-breasted redingotes in grayest flannels or camel haired car coats all anchored by tractor tire boots for men; or the open-backed, petal shaped strap little charcoal dresses for women. Add in a dash of bold red and blue tartan in a sumptuous lady trench and great broken plaid wool bags and you had a great show.
Moreover, for once, we could joy some written Miuccia musing.
“The influence of one upon the another (men and women) are non-linear, asymmetrical, unobvious and always profound. Gender is a context and context is often gendered,” read the text. We’re not sure if Roland Barthes would entirely agree, but the thoughts did lead to a worthy visual statement of fashion philosophy.