Pitti Immagine Uomo 95 Highlight
The season kicks off with a strong Pitti and the debut of Aldo Maria Camillo on the catwalk.
Aldo Maria Camillo F/W 2019/20
Italy is the men’s tailoring Mecca but has been in dire need of new blood in its designer ranks. It’s been a while that Pitti has featured an Italian on its runway showcases and tonight Aldo Maria Camillo formerly of Valentino, Cerruti and Berluti stepped into the spotlight with a focused tour de force of modern Italian tailoring. All it took was 26 looks and Camillo made clear what he wants to add to a crowded men’s market: Sophisticated luxury clothing where the fabrics look strong and sturdy, the silhouette is clearly defined with a high arm hole and a low waist pant and military references everywhere without ever overshadowing the clothes. There was a hint of Helmut Lang and Carol Christian Poell in the air but that’s all the better when these two Austrian designers are no longer part of the system with new clothes. Or in case of the Lang brand which sadly has another new start with a showcase at Berlin Fashion Week. To his credit, Camillo was vocal about his references calling the show “Radici” – meaning his personal roots and memories of getting into fashion in the 90’s when Lang and Margiela ruled.
Cut and line?
Camillo is very much a man about this basic design principle, which every great designer has at the core of his work. Straight lines running from the shoulder to the wrist, low cut pants to lengthen the silhouette were at the core of his tailoring.
With a history at Cerruti, which is synonymous for great fabrics, and at Berluti where expensive fabrics were a must and not an obstacle, Camillo knows the best fabrics in the world by heart. He showed super light moleskin with a smooth hand, treated shearlings with a beautiful broken leather effect and washed Shetland wools to feel soft. This is the foundation of a great men’s collection.
A really great idea?
When everyone keeps talking about gender fluidity and pieces that can be worn by women or men alike, Camillo made a very simple but strong point. His coats for men and women are the same in design but not in size. The man gets a 48 and the woman a 38.
Flights of fancy?
There were leopard print pants for men and women, red boots and leather pants and lots of white tank tops and white coats to add panache to the mostly black and navy suiting.