Paris Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2020 Part 1
Paris cannot keep up with the other fashion capitals we have visited before in terms of the weather but the fashion, well the fashion, is just too good to be true. Here, is the undisputed highlight from the first days.
Dries Van Noten S/S 2020
This Antwerp-based designer is no longer independent. Considered one of the most influential designers within Europe’s top fashion ranks, he sold a majority stake in his business to the Spanish fragrance group Puig last year. Reflecting a sad development that stand-alone brands now face overwhelming pressure to keep up with technological innovation, growth and the bitter fight for good flagship locations or good positions within top stores. But as always, Dries is having it his way, using the financial acumen of his new partners to attain personal dreams. His latest: to create a collection together with the king of opulent 80’s couture Christian Lacroix who is trending on all major runways but still was somewhat forgotten.
L’air du temps?
Christian Lacroix was Bernard Arnault’s first major investment and in a way, one of his only flops. Lacroix is a deeply cultivated man who at his height as a couturier created unforgettable runway spectacles. But once the ostentatious 80’s and early 90’s were over, so was he. Minimalism and sellable sportswear stepped in. While Van Noten was always hard to categorize, his ultimate template of creating wearable clothes for women for every day kept him on the radar for more than three decades now. Real clothes for real people could be his label’s mantra. Of course, always with a dash of showmanship and so his runway outings have become favorites of the brainy critics, the popular magazines and stores alike. Calling Lacroix for a collaboration on his new collection proves just how tuned in Van Noten is to the Zeitgeist.
Flamenco skirts, polka dots, color and zebra prints, rich brocade, the black ribbon and taffeta trains. All combined with Van Noten’s love for wearability as expressed in a red thread compromised of white jeans and white tanks.
Where the minds met?
Lacroix from Arles and Van Noten from Antwerp – the North meeting the South. This is where the collection gathered its tension and strength. But Van Noten has always been known for his Indian embroidered coats and flourish. That’s why this worked, he didn’t have to stray away too far from his original DNA.
What it says to the world?
Well, if an Antwerp realist and an Arles dreamer can come together, why not Green-minded parties with conservative ones in European politics.
Our favorite pieces?
The white jeans and tank top look with black ribbon patterns running on the left leg of the denim combined with a feather sash over a tank top which led the finale or the floral print coats paired with cascading polka dot skirts.