Paris Fashion Week Women’s S/S 2019 Part 1
Achtung's seasonal review on Paris' greatest fashion moments: Dior
Dior S/S 2019
Maria Grazia Chiuri is in great form at the moment. It’s been a brand new Dior ever since she took over as the first woman at the helm at one of the world’s most admired fashion brands. And she has made her gender her mission statement. Her Dior is about women and their daily lives. Eveningwear is reserved for Haute Couture and ready to wear is a daytime dressing deal. When in the beginning her slogan driven fashion – remember her “We should all be feminists” first show – seemed a bit contrived, she has now found her stride and continues pushing the envelope by celebrating women’s causes or taking role models like Niki de Saint Phalle and now Pina Bausch as inspiration.
Yes, she is an accomplished accessory designer and the return of the successful Saddle bag from John Galliano is back on her runway. So what, if it was invented by a designer the Dior historians or owners would like to forget about. On yesterday’s runway it was back as cross body bag tightened to the torsos of the models who paraded her unconstructed dresses amidst a group of eight modern dancers. The eight performed a Pina Bausch-inspired modern dance spectacle. Little did Chiuri know that the name Pina Bausch and her Wuppertal dance ensemble are in the news in Germany at the moment.
Of course, we love German cultural references at Achtung Digital and we would like to remind you dear reader that Bausch’s blend of movement, sound, and prominent stage sets, plus her elaborate collaboration with her dancers during the development of a piece, made her a leading influence in the field of modern dance, creating what is known as Tanztheater. Bausch quotes greeted the show guests when entering. Why is this so timely? The latest artistic director of the ensemble, Rumanian Adolphe Binder was just recently unceremoniously fired in Wuppertal leaving the ensemble without direction. It’s in the hands of local politicians now and as the recent drama at Berlin’s Volksbuehne under Chris Dercon showed, politics should never interfere with the arts. So seeing Chiuri pay homage to Bausch and scoring an important runway success with her beautiful dresses was a true fashion moment.
This designer is known to like things floor length. Her all black opening look summed up the show. A confident elegance dress with athletic wrist straps and flat ballerinas to let the body and the fabric do the talking. Also, the tailored jackets with flowing skirts looked strong all held together with CD logo belts.
Owning a theme without being owned?
The hair pulled back like real dancers do and the flat ballerinas worn by most of the cast vowed.
Where is the complaint?
Well, Dior is no longer a fashion surprise. Chiuri’s designs are anchored in reality and she uses the show to elevate her designs to utmost sophistication and perfection. But no fashion news here. Clearly, the woman is a realist because now there are Dior cargo pants and acid washed denim pieces.
Not to be underestimated?
At least under Chiuri, Dior is one of the few houses which shows ready-to-wear and Haute Couture and manages to clearly distinguish the two categories.
Pietro Beccari (of Fendi fame) is now the CEO here and by bringing in Kim Jones for Dior Men who is a master at the high meets low design game and keeping Chiuri who can do the same, we are not surprised if the Dior numbers will soon be soaring because this collection is commercial cocaine.