Milan Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2020 Part 1
Without a doubt, the September shows for Spring/Summer is our favorite season. In New York Indian Summer is just around the corner, London presents itself with perfect temperatures and in Milan the sun never looks better. And of course, the shows in Italy’s fashion capital confirm the seen trends. Prada stripped down, Bottega Veneta switched up and Vogue Italia’s Talent initiative celebrated its tenth anniversary with a great exhibition.
Prada is the show people come to Milan for and Daniel Lee’s Bottega Veneta has added a second good reason. Both shows were strong within their own parameters. Miuccia Prada dialed down the trend setting factor and presented an elegant collection, which focused on the individual. While in the past models often featured their initials on their looks, this season Signora Prada literally created each look for the model who wore it as in Freja Erichsen opening one of a see through grey polo paired with a knitted calf length skirt and Sara Blomqvist closing look with the same knit top and embroidered skirt to make a powerful statement for Prada minimalism.
Meanwhile at Bottega Veneta, Daniel Lee advanced his sensual design template, which embraces reality by showing a confident collection with lots of signature leather, selvedge denim and super knitwear and shoes.
What makes the new BV?
With only two shows, Daniel Lee has created a signature look of subversive sex. By exposing lots of skin on his black leather looks and tubular knits, casting a younger, ethnically diverse gang and adding chain link jewelry all over the body, the look is completely new. Not sleazy, but confident, real and sexy.
The great idea?
By combining the house signature Intrecciato technique where strips of leather are hand-braided into an interlocking pattern with the puffing of a down jacket, BV has found a formula to make its footwear and bags look within the house codes but completely new.
Generally oversize in jackets or giant leather trench coats and maxi shorts on the men, Lee switches gear and creates tension with his intersecting and close to the boy knits.
It’s remarkable to witness this rapid reinvention. Being a German magazine, we were always particularly proud of the work that Pforzheim native Tomas Maier did for this house. A true artisanal designer with architectural training he made sure the house was based on technique and craftsmanship. Lee now cleverly uses this foundation to inject a jolt of Zeitgeist. While Maier introduced Pforzheim-made gold jewelry to Bottega Veneta has an extra category, Lee uses these ornaments to enhance or disrupt his clothes. Just a tweak but all new.
Judging from the audience?
It’s like this. At certain big shows you see the staff clad head to toe or the audience. BV’s show’s secret to success is both. Scores of editors, buyers and store chiefs and their guests wore Lee’s first collection and from what we hear, demand is so high that Bottega Veneta can currently not meet all placed orders as craftsmanship takes time.