Marni S/S 2018
Francesco Risso is in a hurry. Only at Marni for a mere six months, he has already managed to put his personal stamp on the house. Maybe the first bat at women’s was not a home run, but here his second men’s collection proved that he gets the irreverent and intellectual spirit of the brand; even better, he creates totally wearable clothes which will be a big hit on the international art exhibition circuit.
Risso likes it boxy and likes to have air between the skin and the fabric. His suits were amazing, especially his contrasting panel ones in beiges and browns.
What was the vibe?
In a funny way, Risso managed to put a major holiday feeling into his office wear. Ties were undone, pinstripes mismatched. He also created a 1930’s version of a full body swimsuit for men in stripes, whimsical and cool.
Looking at things differently and with a fresh set of eyes, Risso had two back stages and sent out models from both directions through the Marni space in Viale Umbria, where cool multicolor seating benches were installed for the audience to have a pistol fire exposure to these clothes.
Versace S/S 2018
Versace has been the talk of town lately but not so much for the clothes but whether Riccardo Tisci would join the house after leaving Givenchy. Although Donatella and Riccardo are friends, this has been an unflattering rumor for Donatella. What is she supposed to do when Tisci is there who would certainly like to take his bows alone? Wait backstage? After a very weak men’s show for this winter and an ok women’s collection in March, which threw around pseudo statements like femininity and equality a bit too easily, Donatella gave the best possible answer last Saturday with her show. A great tailoring tour de force with just enough printed silk to bring heritage and the now on the runway.
The best call?
The house was back at Via Gesù 12, its traditional headquarter. After several sterile shows in a big space next to Milano’s Fiera, which packed in hundreds, this was an intimate outdoor coffee table affair for a few which felt right and was a good decision.
The best looks?
This show was pure Versace where passion runs deep. Gianni was a great tailor who loved to use Prince of Wales and pinstripes fabrics and they were there refreshed by using different pinstripes as contrast within jackets and shirts.
Of course, there were silk shirts but cut up and combined. For a house which is known to work the Medusa the use of a crystal crown as embellishment seemed new. The signature metal mesh chains were stitched through tailoring to create an modern take on the pinstripe.
An added benefit?
The women’s looks were everything Versace should be. Sexy, expensive, seductive, powerful with heavy embroidery. It was obvious that the models loved their outfits so they proudly strutted in the courtyard.