Milan Men’s Fashion Week F/W 2018 Part 2
Versace F/W 2018
Donatella Versace is in the spotlight at the moment. Penelope Cruz will play her in a forthcoming TV series on Gianni Versace on the eve of the 20th anniversary of his assassination. The house has sent out multiple statements distancing itself from the series and understandably Donatella is keeping a low profile at the moment and avoiding to greet editors backstage after her show. Her latest Versace Man gave her no reason to hide as it picked up on the last women’s tribute collection and effectively showcased the house’s strengths: vivid colors, fantasy prints and English tailoring right out of the Gianni playbook.
Whoever makes the prints at Versace is goooood. The first look of the show featured a tiger with a Versace logo stuck on. The house is directly targeting millenials as well so the print was on a silk hoody not a shirt.
What was new?
Generally at Versace prints and colors are harmonized but in this show they were clashing on coats and parkas. Scottish tartan, Chesterfield checks and animal silk prints all in one. The underrated Versace Home collection was center stage.
Also, at Versace the sneaker fever has taken hold but Donatella pumped out some cool chain-link soled versions.
Dirk Bikkembergs F/W 2018
It is often forgotten that Dirk Bikkembergs is part of the Antwerp 6 next to Dries Van Noten or Ann Demeulemeester. On top, it is nearly always forgotten that Bikkembergs is actually German and not Belgian. He was born near Cologne and one of our favorite German designers Dirk Schoenberger trained with him. So of course, the brand is relevant for Achtung Digital. Even more so as in Lee Wood a new creative director has been installed who showed his third season. Wood is a capable designer who served as Donatella Versace’s right and left hand for many years working on everything from Haute Couture to Versus the second line.
In fact it is refreshing to see that Bikkembergs is a fashion show again and not a football boot camp. Commercially savvy, the football fashion spin worked wonders at the Italian cash registers but was missing fashion authority. Wood is doing a good job to bring back the design identity of Bikkembergs and he set out to show that he is an assured tailor. We loved his roomy Macs and coats with blown-up breast pockets for an assertive look.
What we liked best?
Several of the jackets and multi color sweaters had attached knitted borders in contrasting colors, which made for a cool visual effect dangling from the garment.
The house was famous for its boots in the 90’s so Wood brought back excellent chunky versions in off colors and fresh colorful sneakers.