MCM S/S 2017

London’s big menswear debut this season was from a German brand owned by Koreans and designed by a Scotsman

With our British cousins seriously considering leaving Europe, it was really telling to see how such a polyglot collaboration thanks to Munich-born MCM was a bona fide hit. Snow, hail and rain fell in video projections on a giant mesh cylinder in which the models marched inside the Connaught Rooms in Holborn. Designed by Christopher Raeburn, the collection – which included several women’s looks – was based on a clever technical camouflage made up of assemblages of MCM’s logo script.

LONDON, ENGLAND - JUNE 11: A model walks the runway for the MCM x Christopher Raeburn SS17 show at Grand Connaught Rooms on June 11, 2016 in London, England. (Photo by Ian Gavan/Getty Images for Christopher Raeburn)
Camouflage print made up from assemblages of MCM´s logo script. Photo by Ian Gavan/Getty Images for Christopher Raeburn

Sent out in nylon trench coats,  jerkins and some great dusters – the look was posh athletic street. Add in silk matelassé looks in the garment of the London season – revamped basketball shorts – and it made for a clever statement about hipster modern travel. Raeburn also worked his magic on some natty backpacks – with contrasting back pouches – all very smart visual statements.

LONDON, ENGLAND - JUNE 11: A model walks the runway for the MCM x Christopher Raeburn SS17 show at Grand Connaught Rooms on June 11, 2016 in London, England. (Photo by Ian Gavan/Getty Images for Christopher Raeburn)
The right balance between posh and sporty at MCM SS17. Photo by Ian Gavan/Getty Images for Christopher Raeburn

“We like a challenge and that’s why we are here,” exclaimed MCM’s owner Madame Kim, who arrived in London after attending the major international women’s summit in Poland. Raeburn also played with the iconic MCM Visetos canvas – doing so with all sorts of new fabrics. A Schoeller 4-way-stretch that is scratch resistant; a remarkable Ecoalf Nylon made of recycled bottles. Hopefully San Pellegrino. In a clever visual pun, the designer worked in the colors of the Bavarian flag. Smart since MCM was born in its capital city Munich.

LONDON, ENGLAND - JUNE 11: A model walks the runway for the MCM x Christopher Raeburn SS17 show at Grand Connaught Rooms on June 11, 2016 in London, England. (Photo by Ian Gavan/Getty Images for Christopher Raeburn)
The clever but subtle resemblance to the Bavarian flag´s colors. Photo by Ian Gavan/Getty Images for Christopher Raeburn

After the four-season installation where pop-digital sun, wind and rain seemed to attack the cast, Raeburn took his bow – a stroll around the large cylindrical installation. A winning fashion moment and an important victory for MCM.