The New Refinement
A patrician mood wafted through this weekend in Milan men’s fashion, notably expressed at Salvatore Ferragamo, where the sense of sophisticated ease and indulgence had great charm.
The mood was nostalgic, yet the clothes contemporary as designer Massimiliano Giornetti lightened up Forties silhouettes by radically reducing the weight of each garment. His key looks – high-necked blousons and double pleated pants came in wafer light mixes of wools so they floated ever so slightly off the torso, and never weighed on the human figure.
Massimiliano Giornetti’s best idea was what he called “reprinting,” meaning adding a second series of images – like for example herds of giraffes – to graphic checks and intricate weaves. Made in beige, pewter and faded aubergine, the look was country gent on an urban outing.
In a moment reminiscent of the film The Garden of the Finzi-Continis, his cast had coiffed wavy hair and matinee idol make-up, a vision of youthful beauty as an effortless experience not a desperate search for thrills and new highs.
This was gilded youth, as his models marched out with oversized waxed travels bags and bulky suede backpacks. Determinedly on the move, keen to arrive at their destination with suave style.
A significant shift has occurred in men’s fashion in the past half decade where the defining aesthetic of elegance has moved from the WASP culture of Ralph Lauren and Savile Row to the gentleman in his farm pursuing slow-food interests in Tuscany or Umbria. No one has done more to introduce this paradigm than Giornetti at Ferragamo. Quietly he has become a fashion leader.