Some Marni models were sporting conical fur hats worthy of a sheep farmer in the Caucasus

Marni F/W 2017

A Smooth Succession at a Quirky House

“I wanted a child’s vision of fashion,” enthused Francesco Risso after his debut at bat for Marni on a chilly Saturday in Milan.

And, that’s very much what he presented. Charmingly expansive plaid pants with huge roll-ups topped by zippered tops and trench-coats in bubble gum tartans. Half the collection sent out rumpled or deliberately un-ironed.

Marni
Francesco Risso’s debut at Marni was all about charmingly expansive plaid pants and trench-coats in bubble gum tartans

Marni’s strength in furs was also exploited with witty cabans, completed with patchwork fur intarsia; and charismatic Yeti like pink shaggy fur coats. Many models were sporting conical fur hats worthy of a sheep farmer in the Caucasus.

Risso joined Marni from Prada, where he was senior director of men’s and women’s. And elements of that house’s oeuvre were apparent in the Little Boy checked suits; and in the front row where a gang of Prada alumni and staffers witnessed his inauguration. Not everything worked – like his padded sans culottes striped jerkins and English public school pajama looks.

Marni
Marni’s strength in furs was exploited with witty cabans, completed with patchwork fur intarsia

But if master painter Niko Pirosmani – the greatest naive artist of Georgia – were alive today in Milan, this is how he would have dressed his subjects. Naïve without ever being childish; this was a fine, fresh take on fashion – and impressive announcement by the lanky Risso, a new star in Italian fashion. Later in the night, this Milano hipster threw a rocking party named Enter the Void in a private apartment in central Milan with DJ Mimi Xu playing an excellent electro set. Risso and pals dancing away the stress of the last few weeks.